In late 2000, Alfred Portale came out with a coffee table type cookbook, based about what he found during a trip to an outdoor market in Italy that brought to life all the images he’d seen in cookbooks over the years.
According to Portale, Quince and Apple Compote is a grown-up version of applesause. The apples breakdown when cooked and the diced quince retain their shape.
I have since turned this into my signature dish. I recently searched for this recipe on the Internet and found it copied in numerous places. I keep it similiar but with a few differences for average homes and cooks. What I found to make a really tender and easier recipe is to substitute two pork tenderloins instead of the rib roast. Sure, the rib roast is a show off dish, but tenderloin is comfort food in my house. A note about this recipe, I have a vegetarian daughter who gives it up for one meal when I make this.
We, like most people, love applesause with pork. The compote, like he says is grown-up. A homemade applesause which is chunky, flavorful and a great aroma which complements the pork.
The pork must marinate for 1 to 8 hours, but for best flavor I put it in the fridge overnight and set it out to warm up about an hour before cooking.
It makes 6 servings.
Ingredients for the pork roast:
- 1 small head fennel with 2 inches of fronds attached, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion
- 6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
- 2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme
- 2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
- 2 tsp finely chopped fresh sage
- 2 tsp finely chopped fresh oregano
- 2 tsp fennel seeds
- 1 1/2 tsp coarsely ground white pepper
- 1 4 1/2-pound pork rib roast, tied
- Coarse salt to taste
In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the fennel and fennel fronds, onion, and garlic and process to a paste. Add the thyme, rosemary, sage, oregano, fennel seeds, and pepper and pulse to combine.
With a small, sharp knife, make shallow crosshatch cuts in the skin of the pork roast. Season it all over with salt, rubbing it in well. Rub the fennel-garlic paste over the roast to cover it with a layer about 1/4 inch thick. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
About 20 minutes before cooking, remove the roast from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature. Transfer the pork to a roasting pan and roast for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature in the thickest section of meat is 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the roast from the oven and cover it loosely with foil. Let it rest for 15 to 20 minutes before removing the butcher twine and slicing it into thick chops.
To be served on the side is the compote.
Ingredients for the compote, also 6 servings:
- 2 large tart, firm apples, such as McIntosh, Rome or Cortland (about 3/4 pound)
- 2 large quince (about 3/4 pound)
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- 2 tbsp sugar
- 1/2 cup apple cider
- 1 tsp fresh lemon juice
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- Coarse salt to taste
Peel, core and dice the apples and quince into 1/2-inch dice.
In a 10-inch saute pan, heat the butter over low heat. Sprinkle the sugar over the melted butter. Raise the heat to medium and cook, occasionally stirring or swirling the pan, for about 3 minutes, until the sugar melts and caramelizes.
Add the quince and apples, and cook, tossing occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes or until the fruit is lightly browned and the apples have softened. The quince dice will retain their shape.
Add the cider and lemon juice and cook for about 2 minutes, until reduced but not evaporated. Season with the ginger and salt. Serve warm.
‘Alfred Portale’s 12 Seasons Cookbook’, can be found at Amazon.com